Using the pattern supplied.....

(I amend the pattern by cutting a curve out of the back neck and facing to make the kit sit better on the back neck-MJ)

  1. Turn in and neaten the outside edges of all facing pieces.
  2. Sew the two back body pieces together
  3. Sew the facing piece to the back, remembering to leave ½” gap at each end
  4. Sew the front facings to each of the front pieces, again remembering to leave a 7” front opening and 4” open on each side if the neck.
  5. Sew the front to the back, along the top arm seam, starting at the cuff edge and continuing to sew until the sewing to the facing/collar is reached. This is done for both sides.
  6. Sew the two fronts together along the centre front, starting at the facing/front sewing and continuing down to the bottom edge.
  7. The facing pieces can now be sewn together, completing the neck and collar edges
  8. Turn over and sew the bottom edge of the front, making a narrow hem.
  9. The back tail (y/g) can now be sewn to the top back of the costume
  10. The back part of the costume can now be further attached to the front. Pin the pieces together, starting at the cuff edge, working along the bottom edge of the sleeve and down the body. The front is pinned to the back as far as the hem. Then the front of the tails is attached. After turning down the top edge (at the side only and with the flap on the outside) this is placed on a level with the seam joining the two back pieces together, (the seam should be sewn with both ends facing downwards) and on top of the red front. The pinning continues down the tails and up to the other side seam. The side process is repeated and the pinning continues up the body and to the next cuff, taking in any slack in the armpit area and adjusting the sewing line. This is one of the more complicated manoeuvres (even worse than Windmills), so please ask if you need clarification. This can then be sewn together.
  11. Measure the distance from the middle of your neck to the edge of your shoulder, and also from the tip of your shoulder to your wrist. A length of tape equal to the length of your arm is then pinned to the top edge of the sleeve. Measuring from the centre back seam the one end is placed at the neck/shoulder measurement previously calculated, and the other end about 3" from the cuff edge. The slack sleeve material is then gathered in reasonably equal pleats along the length of the tape. This is then sewn together, and the process is repeated for the other arm.
  12. Turn over the edge of the cuff and sew, leaving a gap through which elastic can be threaded.
  13. The inside seam of the tail can be trimmed /cut to allow a neat edge when turned the right way. It is useful to turn the tail the right way and edge tack it before it is sealed so that the seams can be opened out to the right shape more easily. Once this has all been done, with the costume the right way out, the front tail (red) should now follow a neat line along the sewn seam of the back tail/back top. Turning in the edge, it is then hand-sewn to the back along that edge, using the thicker seam to conceal the stitching.
  14. To neaten off the finished kit, the facings are sewn down to allow the collar to sit properly.

Care should be taken to ensure that the colour of the thread used agrees with the colour of the material it sews. This does involve a lot of swapping with the bobbin and the top cotton, and is sometimes too fiddly to do, as with the cuff, when only one side will match, but it is worth it in the long run.